August 4 ... Kununurra

Despite a lovely campground in Wyndham I found myself counting trucks for most of the night ... one about every 10 mins! And the people beside us had a noisy air conditioning unit which kept cutting in and out. I had heard other people complain about this but it was the first time we have experienced it. On the good side, the curlews were screaming and this eerie sound always reminds me I am in the tropics.

Not long after we got up and got organized we had a visitor looking for an early morning carrot. As donkeys go, this one seems rather intelligent and very friendly, but he quickly moves on if his soulful eyes are unsuccessful.

Actually in the caravan park was an amazing tree. Listed as the oldest boab in captivity !! it was 20m in circumference, 25m high and more than 2000 years old. Now that is impressive. We took some time to admire it before driving out to the historic port area.

Can you see me?

Garry and I were both disappointed how such an historically interesting area has been left to deteriorate until it is now basically just ruins. We were looking forward to exploring the old museum but it was not opening today, so we tried to find our own way around the small township using the little signage they had. Most of the buildings were very old but , for sentimental reasons, I took a photo of the “store” originally owned by the Duracks (1885).

The Durack's Store

A 1900's home in the tropics

We then drove on to the port to see just where all these road trains were going. Past the crocodile farm we found a new iron ore stockpile and loading facility. As we watched, a large truck came up with its covered load of iron ore in four trailers, and while it moved very slowly across the face of the stockpile, the trailers tipped over and the ore slipped out the side. It was all so efficient, and very clean. The trucks do a continual circuit from mine to port and never actually stop. After dumping their load, another machine went to work nudging the unloaded ore up the existing and ever growing mound. From this there was a conveyor belt which appeared to be loading the ore onto barges.

Wyndham has always been a major port in the far north. It has supplied pastoralists, shipped gold, brought in the gold diggers and been the location  of a huge meatworks. Today it ships live cattle to Asia, and loads both nickel and iron ore. It has a long history and this small area could so easily be developed into a profitable tourist venue.

After a quick look at the pioneer Cemetery, we headed up and up and up to The Five Rivers Lookout. We think this would be a strong contender for the best lookout in Australia. The views it gives of the Cambridge Gulf and the surrounding area are unequalled.

The banks of the waterway do not appear to be much of a barrier for the water which spills over during a high tide to cover an enormous area. The mangroves love this environment and hence this area grows some of the biggest salt water crocodiles in the world. This is recognized in Wyndham by this model which is mainly a bit of fun.

Wyndham

The big croc!

Also in the local park are these huge bronze statues in recognition of the indigenous peoples of the area. A few of these people have made the park their “home base” so you can have a chat to them if you want. I was really pleased to hear so many of the aboriginal people here, and in Halls Creek, speaking in their original language. All too quickly these languages are being forgotten by the young aborigines and this is a real loss for the wider Australian culture.

After this we left Wyndham and headed towards Kununurra. The green and gold of Australia can be seen in the landscape in many forms apart from the usual acacia. 

The road followed the valleys below the escarpments and the landforms were again impressive. The sky is such a pure blue and the earth so red. Add the gold of the grasses and spinifex, the green of the trees and the grey white of the boabs and you have a piece of art.

As soon as you start to get close to Kununurra, you can add the beauty of water to the palette and this area is stunning. 

Just to finish off a great day, we are on perhaps our best site of the trip. Close to the pool and amenities but in good shade and with plenty of space. We are surrounded by tropical vegetation and the effect is one of feeling cool and calm. We couldn’t be happier! 

Kununurra Campsite