June 19 ... Canarvon

Well, I did get to go back to Eagle Bluff, not once but twice! Yesterday was a perfect day, a clear blue sky with no wind, and we were very glad we had booked a flight over Shark Bay. It cost $150 each for about 40 mins and we chose the Blue Route, down over Eagle Bluff, across over the salt mines, up the Zuytdorp Cliffs and over Steep Point, around Surf Point on Dirk Hartog Island, through South Passage and along the coast, then finally back across the bay to Denham.

  Flight - The Blue Route

Garry - Ready to go!

I took heaps of photos but they are all through the glass of the plane window with lots of reflection, and right outside was an aerial I tried to avoid, so they can not possibly capture the depth or breath of colour, or the expansiveness of the scene. However, we wanted something to remember such a fantastic experience by, so I kept clicking!

Unfortunately Eagle Bluff disappointed us again in that there was no marine life but the views were spectacular. It is easy to see why such a variety of animals can be sighted there as the waters are so clear and there are dense sea grass beds just off the coast. More than 10000 dugongs live in Shark Bay and that is about one-eigth of the world's population, so why are they so hard to spot?!

Eagle Bluff

Waters off Eagle Bluff

From  the bluff we set off across the bay, trying to sight sharks etc all the way, towards the Useless Loop Salt Mines. This is a huge industry which produces the best quality table grade salt. Strangely, most of this is bought by Japan primarily for use in their blast furnaces! Out in the bay are large mounds of pure white sea salt ready to be loaded onto ships. On shore are massive ponds in their various stages of drying. There is a small town providing very basic services but this would definitely be a quiet place to live.

Initial Holding Ponds

Drying Ponds with Salt Piles, ready for loading, out in the Bay

A few bumps and we were over, then alongside, the Zuytdorp Cliffs. The sea was pounding against these, even on such a calm day, so they looked very daunting. We followed them along to Steep Point, the most westerly part of the Australian mainland and only otherwise accessible by four wheel drive. There is nothing there except a lighthouse ... and great views.

The Zuytdorp Cliffs

Quite foreboding, even on a calm day

Steep Point with cliffs clearly visible

Steep Point - the most westerly part of Aus Mainland

South Passage is between Steep Point and Dirk Hartog Island. At the bottom of the island is Surf Point and there were certainly plenty of waves there. But on the more sheltered side of the island we were on the lookout for swimming things, and we were not disappointed. Whilst not plentiful in number, we saw 3 dugongs, 1 shark, 2 turtles and 3 rays, and I was very happy with that. Granted they were all pretty small but still clearly visible from the plane.

South Passage with sea grass beds

Then it was back towards Denham. The beauty of the different coloured water was entrancing. We really wanted to keep on flying around. It must be an amazing trip in summer when the bay is teeming with sharks and other life. Should we return during those months I would definitely want to do it again.
The pilot did a big circle around Denham and we could clearly see our site in the caravan park and the township. A faultless landing and it was all over, but something very special to remember.

Denham Seaside Tourist Park - Site 19

Denham township - Shark Bay - WA

It was well after 1pm by the time we had eaten lunch and stopped in again at Eagle Bluff ... just in case... but no, nothing swimming by today! After a last glimpse of Shell Beach and the bay from various hills, we were back on the highway and heading north to Canarvon.
On the way we encountered another swarm of locusts which made a bit of a mess of the car but otherwise the drive was very flat and relatively monotonous. The Wintersun Caravan Park in Canarvon is very nice but we have a shady site which is not the best at this time of year, and no sea views!

Today we spent doing domestic duties: washing, shopping for groceries and cleaning.  Coral Bay has only the basics and no water so it's best to be organized. It is amazing just what we can pack into this little van, but having the box on the back is excellent. Canarvon is very much still recovering from the massive floods they experienced over December and January. Some businesses were completely ruined and there is a lot of rebuilding going on. We noticed a lot of damage around the place, including on the plantations but we did stop at one to buy some mango "leather" and some mange ice-creams, which were delicious. A lot of people in the park know each other; most are much older than us and all of them either fish or play bowls, or both! This is the first place that has felt a bit like a retirement village and I will be happy to move on.